Restaurant Review
The chowder house adventure
Reviewed by Crystal Hutchens
Alaska’s special variety of long, cold, snowy, dark winters leaves its inhabitants looking for a special kind of comfort food. Most restaurants that offer hearty chowders during the winter months know what I mean. On a cold day, a little café like Middle Way often sells out of its homemade soup. I decided the thick of winter would be a great time to do some comparison tasting of that good, old standby, clam chowder, and its offshoots; the Alaskan version sometimes adds a twist with different seafoods. There are so many great offerings in town, I didn’t even get to sample all of the restaurants I intended to. I stopped by the Bradley House on a Friday and their clam chowder was sold out before dinner time. I tried to stop by for a cup of Humpy’s clam chowder one early Friday evening, but I couldn’t find a parking space within a mile of the place. At nine months pregnant, walking isn’t my best sport, so I had to abandon the mission. I’ll tell you about the places I did try, and leave plenty of discovery up to you. Even aside from chowders, Anchorage is a great town for homemade soup. on appetite!
Bear Tooth Grill, 1230 W 27th Ave.
Almost as an afterthought, I added a cup of the Grill’s halibut chowder to my recent take-out order when I noticed it on the menu. This soup, which is available every day of the week, was definitely my favorite. I might go so far as to say the stock was the best I’ve ever tasted. I say might because I’m getting on in age and my memory isn’t what it used to be. Made with real cream and fresh rosemary, the buttery finish on each delectable bite kept me digging in for more. It had a rich, creamy thickness that had nothing to do with flour or any other kind of standard thickener found in typical chowder. Chock full of potatoes, carrots, celery and garlic, the predominant flavor was the delicious rosemary. I thought it was a little stingy on the halibut, but there was plenty of the soft fish flavor in the mix. $2.95 cup, $3.95 bowl.
Phyllis’s Café, 436 D St.
Available every day of the week, Phyllis’s Café offers up New England clam chowder with seafood of the day. On the day I stopped by, the seafood bonus was Salmon, Halibut and, the chef said, “I threw in a handful of shrimp.” This soup was very thick and rich with plenty of clams, potatoes, celery, fresh herbs, and lots of shred sized pieces of the previously mentioned fish choices. It was perfectly seasoned and not too salty. My cup of soup was accompanied by a chunk of fresh sourdough bread, from local bakers (Europa), which was great for dipping and scooping out the last of the soup when I hit the bottom of the bowl. I was told they also sometimes get fresh bread from L’Aroma Bakery. $3.00 cup, $5.00 bowl.
Jackie’s Place, 2636 Spenard Rd.
Homemade on Friday’s, Jackie’s Place serves up a hearty clam chowder. I ordered a bowl and it was definitely a meal. It was stocked with plenty of large potato chunks, celery and ample clams from little chunks to big nickel sized pieces. It was also teaming with big chunks of chewy bacon. Not too salty, it was seasoned with lots of fresh herbs and the stock was thick and creamy. Ask if you want crackers. $2.50 cup, $3.50 bowl.
Leroy’s Family Restaurant, 2420 C St.
Offered on Friday’s, Leroy’s chowder was good, if a little boring. It was very creamy and seasoned well with lots of clams and big potato chunks, but nothing else. I ordered a cup and my waitress brought me a bowl, explaining she was out of cups, but would still charge me for one. She also delivered a big basket of crackers with the soup. I can’t say anything bad about the chowder, but there’s nothing really to rave about either. For standard fair, it was done well. $3.25 cup, 3.95 small bowl, $4.95 large bowl.
Cattle Company, 300 W Tudor Rd.
Served on Friday’s, this chowder was the disappointment of my soup sampling adventure. Made in-house, I wouldn’t recommend ordering it if you are torn between soup or salad. The stock was rich and creamy, but it was over salted, and definitely thickened with either corn-starch or flour. It was loaded with cubed potatoes and everything else--bacon, celery and clams--was minced. I only took a couple bites before pushing it aside and moving on to my meal. On the up-side, I took the leftovers home, and adding a little fresh cream made a decent meal out of it. You can choose it as a side to your meal or order a bowl for $3.99.